Dave’s not only an avid car enthusiast; he is qualified in mechanical engineering and president of the Smokin’ Aces Car Club. So when it comes to his 1933 Ford Roadster only the best will do.
Dave started building his hot rod in 2002 and completed the build in 2007.
Chassis was strengthened and modified to suit 351 Cleveland V8 stroked to 410 which puts out a massive 750 horsepower. Other features include; Holley 950 ultra carby, aluminium heads, intake manifold with an engine plate. Plus, MSD ignition chipped to 6000rpm, fully customised 3” exhaust system and hooker mufflers.
The Interior has been fully customised and self designed, with tan leather including the dickie seat at rear.
The cooling system is what you may find in most hot rods.
Pump: mechanical coolant pump, under driven 25%
Radiator: 2 row, 26mm tubes, single pass
Thermostat: standard high flow
Pre Evans Assessment
Before installing Evans we looked at the three main features of the cooling system, pump, radiator and thermostat.
Radiator fell within the parameters we want to see. Large tube size and single pass. This would allow Evans to flow with minimal restriction. A challenge too many hot rod owners is the fact that there is not a lot of space at the front end for a large radiator. The number of rows and larger tube size ensures sufficient coolant flow is achieved.
Pump is currently 25% under driven to accommodate water. Although this is common practice when using water, Evans prefers flow and can flow quicker and will not cavitate. We would prefer to over drive the pump by around 22%. Reason is that the engine RPM range is typically low, less than 3000.
In this case we decided to leave it under driven, and only change pulleys if need be.
The thermostat, while still hi flow will be removed completely. This will offset some of the flow restriction created by the under driven pump. No bypasses were present, if there were, we would block them to ensure coolant flow is directed to the radiator.
- Draining Old Coolant.
Due to the height of the car we utilised a hoist to help drain the old coolant out. With the radiator cap removed, we disconnected the bottom radiator hose to allow coolant to drain out.
This removed around 60% of the total coolant from the system
2. Thermostat removal
We removed thermostat housing and took out the thermostat. This will allow us to give the block a good drain using air and because we will not be re-installing the thermostat, we reconnected the upper radiator hose straight away.
3. Using Air to Flush Block
Air is a great way to remove old coolant from your block. We used a small leaf blower. We generally use this because it fit well into the upper hose. Also, when using air as a flushing aid, high volume, low pressure is best. This removed most of the remaining old coolant from the block.
4. Prep Fluid
We reconnected the upper and lower radiator hoses, and then filled the system with Evans Prep Fluid. Evans Prep Fluid is specifically formulated to purge any remaining water from the cooling system.
Engine was started and left to idle for 15-20mins. After this time, engine was left to cool and then drained (same method as 1 and 3 above).
If the engine had drains on the block, this would allow coolant to be removed directly from the block and no Prep Fluid would be needed.
5. Fill with Evans High Performance Coolant
Once the system was drained of the Prep Fluid, Evans High Performance Coolant was added. We filled the system, first through the upper radiator hose, then through the radiator just to try avoid air from being trapped in the system.
Engine was run for 20mins without radiator cap on to ensure air had a chance to escape the system
- Over flow tank was left empty. We would expect Evans to over expand on initial use. Due to the location and design of the radiator opening it was difficult to judge overfilling. On initial use the system may purge some Evans into the expansion tank. When this happens, drain the expansion tank and you now have your perfect coolant level.
- We also plugged the weep hole, with a thin skin of silicone, on the underside of the coolant pump. This is to avoid air being sucked into the pump. We plug the weep hole because of the lower pressure Evans creates at the suction eye of the impeller can allow air to enter the system.
- Stable coolant temperatures around 90C
- Radiator cap can be taken off at operating temperature (less than 3% water present in the system)
- System will remain corrosion free for the lifetime of the engine
- Coolant changes no longer necessary, Evans is good for life.
Evans Waterless Engine Coolant contains NO WATER and has a 190C boiling point, therefore eliminating steam. The elimination of steam ensures that heat transfer remains even throughout the engine.
The absence of water also ensures that the engine remains corrosion free, 4LIFE.